Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. Is there away to lean the idle out? I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. Thank you. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. Hello. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. As always, I recommend great restraint in changing any of the parameters until a significant amount of learning has taken place. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. I'd really appreciate some help. The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. I keep wondering how it was running so good with The window you saw in the image above pops up. have the system learn the higher speeds? If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. It is simply for the benefit of the user. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. The throttle plates are misaligned. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Any suggestions would be appreciated. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. :-). You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. Also if I give it a Add To Cart. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. It's not necessary to drive it that way. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Is this normal ? An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. Tried that and it didn't work? I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. Top 10 Sniper EFI Installation Tips from Holley's Tom Kise Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. (Do this while you are cranking.) When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. My problem is low idle. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. Thanks again. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. Chris thank you for the info. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. idles good, runs amazing. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? I looking for your expert opinion. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. I have quadruple checked my wiring and am certain it's correct. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. I appreciate everything you are saying. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. The distributor was loose. No air should be able to pass. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. Cycled the ignition off. IAC Creeps To 100% - Holley Performance Products Forums You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. Car was running great initially. Sorry I didn't buy from you but I didn't know you had sold them. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. Try it! That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. So glad this was helpful. If I go any more it will ping. I believe because the TPS is not registering. The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning - Holley Motor Life Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing.
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